The hard work has finally paid off for Inez Melendez, who poured five years into growing her empanada business from a food truck to a virtual restaurant, and finally, into a permanent restaurant. Chicago Empanada Mama opened last week at 1703 W. Chicago Avenue after a year-long construction process allowing Melendez to offer homey Puerto Rican dishes, Caribbean cocktails, and rum tastings.
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Launched just days before the city’s Puerto Rican Day Parade, the restaurant features a roster of sweet and savory empanadas such as quesitos con guava (guava, gruyere), cochinita con quesio (ham, cheese), and ropa vieja (beef, potatoes). That’s in addition to classic sides like arroz con gandules, shrimp ceviche with plantain chips, and Puerto Rican potato salad made with apples.
The restaurant opened with cups of coffee from nearby Dark Matter and bottles of malta, a nostalgic and booze-free island favorite. Grown-up patrons can also try rum-based cocktails like Esteban’s Smoked Rum-Fashioned (Ron Zacapa Centenario, chocolate bitters, pecan smoke) and Titi-Martha-Rita (guava, lime, tequila, Grand Marnier), as well as beers from breweries like nearby Forbidden Root.
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Plump, golden, and stuffed with a wide variety of ingredients, empanadas come from numerous countries including Argentina, Chile, Venezuela, Belize, Ecuador, and the Philippines. The hand pies reflect numerous regional styles — some are made from corn flour, others from wheat; some are fried while others are baked — that can be found in Chicago restaurants and bakeries. In Puerto Rico, where both baked and fried wheat empanadas are ubiquitous, locals often refer to them as empanadillas or pastelillos, sparking vigorous debate over the preferred nomenclature.
Melendez grew up cooking alongside her mother, Rosita, a consummate host who loved to bring her friends and family together for hearty Puerto Rican meals, she tells Block Club Chicago. Melendez hopes to foster that same cozy atmosphere in her vibrant new restaurant space, where the walls are painted teal and blush pink. Hanging basket lamps and stylish Edison bulbs channel festive energy into the counter-service storefront, which is laden with greenery and floral blooms — a tribute to Aibonito, Melendez’s father’s hometown in Puerto Rico that’s famed for its flower gardens and nurseries.
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Despite the many nods to its owner’s heritage, Chicago Empanada Mama is no beachside cafe — plush velvet chairs, stools, and upholstered couches line the dining room. Melendez and her team hope to entice patrons to linger and feel comfortable hanging out, and comfortable seating can go a long way.
Look around West Town’s new Puerto Rican restaurant in the photos below.
Chicago Empanada Mama, 1703 W. Chicago Avenue, 6 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday and Tuesday; 6 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday; 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday.
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