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Logan Square’s New Mediterranean-Influenced Hotspot Garners Critical Praise

Plus Perilla is an evolution of the Korean barbecue experience, and more reviews

The intimate dining room features bar and banquette seating and dark color tones.
Good Fortune is an excellent Logan Square newcomer.
Jacquelyn Trezzo

Phil Vettel thinks Good Fortune has all the marks of a great restaurant: “A stylish setting, good cocktails, excellent food and serious wine.” Former Honey’s chef Charles Welch crafts Mediterranean-influenced dishes, many of which star vegetables, including a melange of marinated beets with orange segments, olives, fennel and pine-nut crumbles, and a burnt-orange vinaigrette. The “star” of a “very nice” arctic char is the citrusy carrot ponzu sauce, while bucatini tossed in a seafood bolognese has a “surprisingly meaty, smoky flavor.” Among the main courses, a “terrific” skin-on fillet of meagre is accompanied by poached sweet potato, wild rice, and dashi broth. And for dessert, parsnip cake with hazelnuts and ganache is a knockout. [Tribune]

Perilla “bridges Korean home cooking and chef-driven Midwestern fare,” writes Maggie Hennessy. The River West eatery nudges folks “toward the cheffier side of Korean barbecue” with dishes such as Brussels sprouts — laced with anchovy paste, brown butter, Parmesan, and garlic chips — that pack “so many textures and levels of umami.” Kimchi pancakes are “at once crunchy and chewy” while steamed egg “erupt[s] from its earthenware cauldron like a souffle made of sunshine.” The “succulent” LA galbi is the star of the show, featuring a soy-based marinade and sizzling “like an applause” on the searing hot grill. [Time Out]

Grand Trunk Road “might be serving the best Indian/Pakistani fare in Chicago.” Michael Nagrant, who starts the review off by lamenting the struggles of being an independent food critic, praises owner/chef Behzad Kahn’s bold South Asian flavors. Chapli kebab — minced lamb patty adorned with sweet and spicy chutney — is “plated on a slate that Richard Serra might claim as one of his sculptural masterpieces” while nehari features “silky beef swimming in a ginger-spiced bath of fennel and chili-spiked gravy.” The naan is also impressive, boasting a “pillowy center and a shatter-crisp exterior,” and a “soulful” crab masala is “Simon Biles-balanced, redolent with pie spice and perfect salt.” The food is paired with “delightfully-named cocktails” like the “Naked and Famous in Mumbai,” a “slightly bitter, but fruity and bright” blend of mescal, yellow chartreuse, Aperol, and lime. [Michael Nagrant]

Umacamon Japanese Kitchen offers specialties from the southwestern island of Kyushu. Mike Sula travels out to Rolling Meadows for a “dizzying selection of sushi, yakitori, and shareable drinking dishes.” Though the island is home to tonkotsu ramen, the restaurant’s signature bowl is Nagasaki’s champon, a “relatively lighter chicken-pork based broth swimming with noodles, seafood, vegetables, and pork.” The okonomiyaki — savory Japanese street pancakes — “could sub for a manhole cover, and its elevation is boosted by scallops, fat shrimp, and chunks of pork.” Even the smaller bites come in generous portions, such as crispy-skinned mackerel with “lusciousness” that suggests the owners have “enduring connections in the fish distribution business.” [Reader]

Maple & Ash’s downstairs companion 8 Bar delivers “way-above-expectations food” according to Graham Meyer. The club sandwich has a “juicy, well-seasoned marinated chicken breast, excellent bacon and sourdough with a lot of personality.” The burger “makes a case for a place in the top handful” of Chicago’s best with “miraculous thin-but-pink-inside patties, cheddar cheese and bright pickles.” Steak frites are “stellar,” too, and have “deep flavor enhanced by garlic and rosemary.” [Crain’s]

Perilla | korean american fare

401 North Milwaukee Avenue, , IL 60654 (312) 243-3344 Visit Website

Grand Trunk Road

219 High Road, , England E18 2PB 020 8505 1965 Visit Website

Eight Bar and Patio

8 W Maple St, Chicago, IL 60610

Good Fortune

2528 North California Avenue, , IL 60647 (773) 666-5238 Visit Website

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