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A Critic Explores a New Egg-Centric Indian Street Food Spot

Plus a critic thinks Brindille is French cuisine at its finest

Brindille
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Mike Sula explores a variety of egg-centric specialties at Egg-O-Holic. Inspired by the street fare of Gujarat, a state in northwest India, the “extensive” menu covers everything from cheesy egg masala roti to an anda masala sandwich, a “tandoori-spiced subcontinental disruption of the common egg salad sandwich.” All the dishes are “extraordinarily rich, thanks largely to their common cooking medium: butter.” It’s especially evident in the green egg curry rice, “a kind of breakfast biryani whose richness is buoyed with mint, mustard seed, and curry leaves.” To cut through the “lactose overload,” Sula finds relief in a glass of masala chhaas--a “salty, spiced buttermilk.” [Reader]

Phil Vettel praises Brindille as one of Chicago’s best French restaurants. The food is “complex and nuanced and unfailingly delicious,” and accompanied by an “excellent wine list and strong beverage program.” There’s a “gorgeous” steak tartare, sporting a “satisfying mouthfeel,” that’s topped with fried quail egg and spicy watercress. Dover sole is “treat[ed] with the care that this royal fish deserves” and worth the $57 price tag, while Scottish wood-pigeon “delivers assertive gamy flavors” and is bolstered by bacon, foie gras, and wild-boar sausage. Desserts include “feather-soft” clafoutis in various flavors as well as a fine selection of cheeses. [Tribune]

Wishbone’s new location “maintains the high-quality, straightforward food” of the original. Though fans “might notice a difference” in the atmosphere, Graham Meyer thinks the kitchen’s execution is still excellent. An “exemplary” catfish po’ boy features a “very soft” fillet, inside crispy breading, and creamy-spicy remoulade on a French roll. The fried chicken sandwich is also “worth crowing about,” topped with cheddar cheese and Lexington coleslaw. On the brunch side of the menu, red eggs with Tex-Mex fixins and ancho-chile sauce are a winner. [Crain’s]

Brindille

534 North Clark Street, , IL 60654 (312) 595-1616 Visit Website

Wishbone Restaurant

161 North Jefferson Street, , IL 60661 (312) 850-2663 Visit Website

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