Twain, the Logan Square restaurant that homages Midwestern comfort cuisine, after a short delay will open tonight. The restaurant is named for celebrated author Mark Twain and will debut as a BYO while management secures a liquor license. Beverage director Rebekah Graham’s wine and beer selections will debut at a later date. Her husband, Tim, is the chef and a native Missourian like the restaurant’s namesake.
Twain’s menu features cheffy twists on classic items like “Ants on a Log” (beer-braised celery, chicken liver peanut butter mousse, brandied cherries), a Midwestern-style surf and turf (meatloaf, unagi, nori- crusted onion rings, red-miso mashed potatoes), and more. This isn’t food most people would commonly associate with “Midwestern comfort.” Chef Graham isn’t going to betray his fine dining experience accrued at places like Travelle and Tru, but he’s adamant at bringing fun and nostalgic Americana to the table.
Rebekah Graham’s beer list will be mostly local. They’ve also brought a familiar face as general manager: Jan Henrichsen has moved over from Heritage Restaurant & Caviar Bar in Humboldt Park. She was a former drink director at Fat Rice in Logan Square.
The stretch of Milwaukee Avenue in Logan Square has no shortage of quality restaurants with Daisies, Bixi Beer, and Paulie Gee’s huddled next to each other. The Grahams, with co-owner Branko Palikuca, hope Twain makes into hungry customers’ Logan Square restaurant rotations.
The interiors feature a myriad of references to Twain’s stories from murals to quilts. The restaurant finally debuts at 5 p.m. today. No, Twain has nothing to do with country star Shania Twain. So don’t worry about any mayo allergies.
Twain, 2445 N. Milwaukee Avenue, (773) 697-8463, open 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. on Sunday through Thursday; 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. on Friday and Saturday.