Another Critic Is Unimpressed by Mini Mott’s Burger

Mini Mott is the fast-casual spin-off that fans have been clamoring for but Reader critic Mike Sula thinks “the Mott signature is just one of the countless unnecessary burgers that are defined more by what’s on them than what’s in them.” While the “upper levels of this sandwich do indeed make a statement, forming a crunchy, crisp, gooey, tangy, sweet, and squishy umami storm,” the well-done patties “have so little flavor or textural interest that they do little more than serve as the floor of a basement frat party in its final hour.”

Elsewhere on the menu in Logan Square, “sugary, soy-saturated” wings are crusted with everything-bagel seasoning, and skewered ddeokbokki — chile-glazed Korean rice cakes impaled alongside “tasty” Berkshire pork mini weenies — show off a different side of the kitchen. Desserts include soft serve ice cream delivered in an Instagram-friendly fish-shaped Japanese street cake cone called taiyaki, or spiked milkshakes, which make “Mini Mott’s sidewalk cafe a nice spot to drink.”

Sula is the second critic to be unimpressed with Mini Mott, following Michael Nagrant’s review in late August.