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A Critic Thinks This River North Spot Has ‘Superbly Indulgent Bar Bites’

Plus Victory Italian is safe but dependable

Good Measure

Good Measure is a punk-tinged spot with “upgraded classic cocktails and superbly indulgent bar bites,” writes Maggie Hennessy. The cozy bar makes a mean Penicillin — described as a “smoky ode to autumn” — while a “perfectly balanced” cosmo features aronia berry liqueur in lieu of cranberry juice. Back in the kitchen, chef Matt Troost tackles food with a “bold attitude.” Nashville hot fried duck livers served with cucumber ranch is a “punishing delight,” and salt-cod brandade gets an assist from a few dabs of huitlacoche. A requisite double cheeseburger can be topped with anything on the menu, but Hennessy only needs a smear of foie-cooked onions to declare it “delectable.” All in all, Good Measure is a “solid enough neighborhood joint to regularly lure” the Time Out critic to River North. [Time Out]

Victory Italian is “competent, conservative and unambitious” according to Graham Meyer. The spinoff of Armand’s Victory Tap won’t excite too many diners but it “scores points for dependability.” Baked clams are “winners,” sandwiches show off “zesty Italian meats and cheeses and a boatload of tangy marinara sauce,” and agnolotti are exactly what one would expect — deliciously filled with ricotta in a bacon and sage-butter sauce. [Crain’s]

Good Measure

226 West Chicago Avenue, , IL 60654 (312) 600-9268 Visit Website

Victory Italian

434 W. Ontario Street, Chicago, IL Visit Website