S.K.Y. Sets Sights on New Heights in Pilsen and More Reviews

Stephen Gillanders takes flight in Pilsen at S.K.Y. The former Intro chef “frequently pushes the right buttons” on pan-Asian dishes, writes Mike Sula. There’s an “irresistible” composition of fried chicken served over corn porridge and fermented habanero hot sauce, as well as bibimbip with foie gras that lends an “understated rich, meaty sumptuousness to the bowl.” A “pretty” plate of hamachi sashimi is dressed with ponzu, creamy avocado, puffed rice, and hydrated black sesame seeds, but other dishes “come across as pro forma renditions of common things.” They include a “warm and comforting but unmemorable” chicken-and-coconut milk soup and Thai steak salad with “familiar flavors muted for the safety of all.” Dessert ends the meal on a high note as a “texturally busy” banana budino is heavy on banana chips. [Reader]

The Moonlighter is a step up from the average neighborhood sports bar according to Maggie Hennessy. On the beverage side, the Scofflaw team’s new project “nail[s] it with a discerning yet unpretentious stable of cocktails and sour-heavy craft beers that complement the come-as-you-are vibe.” The Bitter Ward is akin to a “brighter, grownup Long Island iced tea” while the Out-N-Out is an “herbaceous, juicy concoction that begs to quench sticky-hot nights.” Food is hit or miss: “Satisfyingly crunch[y] wings are cooked till succulent inside and crisp outside” but burgers are “overgriddled to the point of dry.” Come summertime though, Hennessy says it’s easy to envision the patio overflowing with patrons and rounds of rosé shots. [Time Out]

Taste 222 is a hidden gem in the West Loop offering “excellent food and drink at gentle prices.” The menu, which Joanne Trestrail labels as “comfort food plus,” features items with a “little something extra going on.” For lunch, there’s a “silky” vegan carrot-coconut soup and a crunchy fried chicken sandwich with “multihued” root-vegetable chips. Meatloaf sliders and a “beautifully composed” poke bowl are also winners. The space itself is “easy on the nerves,” highlighted by oriental rugs, an elegant bar, and “efficient staffers who seem happy to be there.” [Crain’s]