Sula Calls HaiSous a Triumphant Comeback and More Reviews

Mike Sula calls HaiSous “Chicago’s restaurant comeback of the year.” Chef Thai Dang “isn’t fucking around” at his new project and has dedicated himself to cooking authentic Vietnamese fare. Bits of tamarind-glazed grilled pork belly and charred tensile squid come with “a kiss of smoke that will trigger the most primal pleasure centers of your brain.” The popular papaya salad makes a return with bits of shredded beef jerky “play[ing] nicely with its appropriately gentle sweetness,” while an octopus salad is a “study in loveliness.” Among entrees, a tomahawk pork chop is “almost porchetta-like with layers of juicy muscle, rich belly fat, and crackly skin.” Desserts include a flaky cream puff filled with coconut cream, a “pleasure that need[s] no company.” [Reader]

Otto Mezzo is a “sleek, sexy speakeasy [that] has the power to transport its visitors to an old Italian movie,” Morgan Olsen writes. She urges you to “put some trust in your server,” but recommends starting with the Biscotti Sour, a creamy and sweet concoction “as satisfying as cookies straight from your grandmother’s oven.” Its counterpart, the smoky Dolemite Don’t Need No Posse, is an “old, timber-filled library in liquid form.” To complement, Ultimo Olives — filled with burrata, wrapped in ‘nduja, and fried — are the “bar snack to end all bar snacks” while vegetable giardiniere crudité is served with a black garlic dipping sauce “you’ll want to pour into your mouth.” Chicago has plenty of great bars to discover but Otto Mezzo is the “kind of place you won’t feel guilty making a regular habit.” [Time Out]

Merchandise Mart finally has a dining destination with Marshall’s Landing. Joanne Trestrail writes that everything on the menu goes “at least a little, sometimes more, beyond the call of duty.” Popcorn and housemade potato chips are “perfect for sharing with drinks” while a “delicious” bruschetta offering pairs forest mushrooms with arugula, ricotta, and pecorino. A fully loaded burger is served with “spot-on” skinny fries but for a lighter option, the crunchy asparagus and arugula salad is a “good way to go.” Overall, it’s a solid spot to grab a midday meal. [Crain’s]