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Temporis is Memorable But Insufficient for Reader; Elske Playfully Woos CS; More

Plus DMen Tap is a budding neighborhood bar

Marc Much

Temporis’ tasting menu is impeccable but the meal leaves Julia Thiel wanting more. The new fine-dining restaurant in West Town doesn’t disappoint on the wow factor: silky Dungeness crab is accented by briny trout roe and creamy parsnip puree, while “sunflower in five forms” features “beautifully contrasting textures and complementary flavors” and also “double[s] as a botany lesson.” Rabbit prepared three ways—the restaurant’s signature dish—is intensified by house-grown microgreens and the meat is “perfectly cooked.” For dessert, a seven-year-old cave-aged white cheddar cheese course is a “real showstopper.” The only issue? Thiel and her companion are still hungry at the end of the night. That aside, almost all of the dishes are “memorably excellent.” [Reader]

Lisa Shames thinks Elske charms and delights. The “reasonably priced” eight-course tasting menu in the West Loop has a “harmonious flow from dish to dish that makes it easy to get swept along.” There’s a “playfulness about many of the plates,” starting with a first course of tea—made from lightly smoked vegetables and fruits—that is “surprising in all the right ways.” Duck liver tart with dried parsley powder combines “earthy flavors with a comforting creamy texture” while all-white roasted cod with sunchokes is a “subtle dish that woos you slowly.” To finish, a “glorious” citrus sundae is topped with toasted milk, barley malt wafers, and bright pieces of satsumas. [CS]

DMen Tap joins the list of great beer bars in Chicago, Michael Nagrant writes. The food-truck-turned-watering-hole in Avondale impresses with a “very well curated” brew selection, spit-roasted meats, and even some Dungeons & Dragons. Gas-roasted chicken chicken doner is “juicy and flecked with char and pepper,” while currywurst sausage is “custard smooth” and served with fries smothered in a “thick, lip-smacking” curry paste. Poutine also makes a fine drinking snack—“curds meld into the hot gravy bath, stretching and oozing like a never-ending mozzarella stick.” Cocktails are likewise great. The winter old fashioned has a “touch of fire and balance” and the Caesar “drinks like a satisfying liquid version of a Chicago dog, minus the hot dog.” [RedEye]

Elske

1350 West Randolph Street, , IL 60607 (312) 733-1314 Visit Website

DMen Tap

2849 West Belmont Avenue, , IL 60618 (773) 961-8757 Visit Website

Temporis

933 North Ashland Avenue, , IL 60622 (773) 697-4961 Visit Website

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