Much to Mike Sula's dismay, Millie's Supper Club is a "regrettably" accurate representation of Wisconsin's beloved dining establishments. The menu is "textbook" and offers prime rib that's a "chewy disaster requiring the mandibular constitution of a pit bull to put away." Combined with an "undercooked" baked potato, it's "among the most discouraging endorsements for supper-club culture [Sula's] yet to come across."
Likewise, broasted, or pressure-fried, chicken is a "sad showing," emerging "pale blond, with a damp batter that sloughs off at the touch" and served with "limp, dry" fries. But the kitchen's "most dispiriting" dish is "grayish" walleye smothered in "unpigmented" sour-cream sauce flecked with dill. Even French onion soup somehow tastes "as if it's been diluted." In the end, Sula surmises that maybe "you just can't take the supper club out of Wisconsin." [Reader]
A reconcept can't save Ocean Cut from going down like the Titanic, according to Anthony Todd. Just like its previous iteration, C Chicago, the seafood restaurant stumbles in many areas, starting with a 45-minute wait for oysters. From there, it's all downhill as ocean charcuterie is a "mix of terrible and nondescript," while a grilled gunard topped with bok choy and oyster sauce is "utterly, completely tasteless." Other offenders include "salmon with toasted grains" that taste like it's "served on top of dry breakfast cereal" and "pretty much awful" Okinawa sweet potatoes flavored with cinnamon. Dessert provides no reprieve either—chocolate cake is "so dry that it taste[s] like something out of a box." Adding insult to injury, the bill comes out to $270 for two people. Ouch. [Chicagoist]
Cindy's new lunch menu makes an attractive spot to stop into during the daytime, writes Joanne Trestrail. Unlike the dinner menu, guests can order individual-sized dishes that are "mostly well-wrought and seasonally astute." Chilled English pea soup is a "fine starter," and among entrees, buttery lake trout with baby beets and horseradish yogurt is a "good choice." Prime steak tartine disappoints, though, as it's "tough to cut" and "problematic" on an open-faced sandwich. Mocktails such as the Rabbit vs. Mule also delivers a "nice nonalcoholic kick," but inattentive service shows there are still some "kinks to work out." [Crain's]