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Oriole Impresses Critics; Nagrant Says Duck Duck Goat Is Ingenious

Your critical reviews of the week

Barry Brecheisen

Mike Sula sings the praises of Oriole and Noah Sandoval's "delicate dishes with excellent product and superb flavors and compositions." A "so ethereal" combination of tiny wild French strawberries paired with an elderflower cocktail is followed by a decadent bite of Scottish langoustine topped with a piece of warm lardo and briny, buttery caviar. Meaty courses include a "powerfully moving bite" of rare and fatty Wagyu beef, as well as "lush" lamb belly glazed jus, macerated huckleberry, ramp leaf puree, anise hyssop, and roasted cipollini.

For dessert, a "remarkable" cheese course features a long pretzel cracker dotted with black currant puree, gianduja, and funky Raclette cheese. On the service side, the staff is "well practiced, almost clairvoyant, but in no way overformal" while beverage pairings from sommelier Aaron McManus are likewise "on point." Overall, Sula calls Oriole one of the city's best high-dollar, multicourse affairs that "you should make a point to experience." [Reader]

Similarly, Oriole also wows Lisa Shames. Caviar-topped Scottish langoustine starts things off by making an "incredible impression," followed by a composition of jamon Iberico—dressed with black walnuts, pickled mustard seeds and Campo de Montalban cheese—that "even the most traditional Spaniards would approve of." Moving onto larger bites, Slagel Farms lamb belly is full of "rich, earthy flavor" while a skewer of Icelandic steelhead trout is paired with "funky" fish broth studded with trout roe. To finish, pineapple sorbet lollipops and a "lovely" chocolate and goat yogurt dish showcase pastry chef Genie Kwon's talents. [CS]

Duck Duck Goat is a "smart, exciting melding of American ingenuity and authentic regional Chinese food," writes Michael Nagrant. Smoky wood-fired duck hearts will burn a "fiery glow in your heart" and char siu ribs retain a "delightful Southern barbecue pit-like bite to the flesh." A salad of octopus, peanut and crunchy cucumber is refreshing like a "cold slice of watermelon" on a summer day while seafood fried rice is lifted by "bright lemon notes and a touch of funky fish sauce." Stephanie Izard brings "searing heat" on Chongqing chicken, covering it with peppercorns and a "mountain" of shishito peppers, but a Taiwanese pineapple dessert ends things nicely with "supremely moist" cake swimming in "lustrous, gooey" soy caramel and cashew ice cream. [RedEye]


661 West Walnut Street, , IL 60661 (312) 877-5899 Visit Website

Duck Duck Goat

857 West Fulton Market, , IL 60607 (312) 902-3825 Visit Website