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Nagrant Says Naoki Serves Some of Chicago's Best Sushi; Sula Lauds 'Uncompromising' Immm Thai

Your dose of critical reviews of the week.

Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises

Michael Nagrant says Naoki is "serving some of the best sushi in the city, and it should not be missed." Located inside Intro Chicago, the new Lettuce Entertain You spot excites with a number of excellent items. A salmon and spicy shrimp maki roll "bursts with a sun-drenched lemony finish" while a plate of "perfectly seasoned" madai snapper sashimi is garnished with shimeji mushrooms and a drizzle of pickled plum syrup. Edamame "guac" dip is "fiery, limey and pungent with garlic," besting any Mexican version, but the star of the night is a "delicate" whole lobster that’s roasted in spicy togarashi butter and served with an "incredible" ponzu. [RedEye]

New Thai eatery Immm Rice & Beyond brings a "wealth of delicious possibilities" to Uptown, writes Mike Sula. He enjoys a changing menu of street food dishes, which include a southern Thai vegetable curry made with fermented fish guts that provides a "deep, funky umami bottom end." Likewise, one variant of papaya salad—som tum puu pla rah—is "one of the most powerfully funky versions" while a boat noodle soup kuay tiew ruea, typically made with pig’s blood, is "perhaps the most ensanguined [Sula’s] ever encountered." On the whole, it’s a rustic experience offering inexpensive, "uncompromising food" and a welcome respite from the dumbed-down places around town. [Reader]

Naoki Sushi

2300 N. Lincoln Park West, Chicago, IL 60614 (773) 868-0002 Visit Website

Immm Rice & Beyond

4949 North Broadway, , IL 60640 (773) 293-7378 Visit Website