Nagrant Thinks Pomp & Circumstance is a Dud; Vettel Says Sheerin's Embeya Excels; More

Pomp & Circumstance is a "half-hearted" throwback to the ‘50s and ‘60s that feels like a "poor man's slapdash copy of Bavette's," writes Michael Nagrant. Roasted half chicken is "juicy" but "need[s] a sprinkle of finishing salt" while cream cheese "overwhelm[s]" the crab meat, garlic and lemongrass flavors in the crab Rangoon. Asparagus and English pea soup is "gloppy and need[s] thinning with a stock" and a jar of cheesecake dip for dessert is a "wimpy whipped dip" that could use more sugar. Stick with the "stiff" drinks instead as they fare much better; the watermelon cooler is "substantial, featuring satisfying scotch-like smoky and grassy notes." [RedEye]

Phil Vettel thinks Embeya is delivering knockout dishes with Mike Sheerin in charge. "Fried squid" is a take on calamari given a "jolt" of Sichuan peppercorns and a "soothing" sauce of kaffir lime and yogurt while barely seared tuna served with roasted beets under foamed coconut milk, lime and maple syrup is "one of the best dishes on the menu." Equally impressive is "light and crisp" soft-shell crab that "plays well" with a sweet black garlic-coconut sauce, and a "terrific" seafood stew that's a "lovely aromatic broth" full of clams, mussels, scallops and crab. For dessert, Thai-coffee ice cream with white-chocolate mousse and dark chocolate cake is "rich and satisfying" and litchi sorbet is "feather-light on the tongue." [Tribune]

Dolce Italian's new lunch menu is "familiar, but smartly done." Laura Bianchi starts with a "silky" asparagus soup that has an "appealing" hot-cold contrast and a seafood crostone that is another "good beginning and hearty enough for a light meal." A panini with prosciutto, tomato and mozzarella served on pizza bread has "satisfying, chewy texture" while pappardelle with Bolognese is a "classic Sunday dinner kind of treat." The pasta dish is a mix of "delicate" housemade noodles tossed with a "comforting" slow-braised mixture of beef, veal and pork simmered with prosciutto to "pump up the richness and flavor." Drinks include a "tasty" white Negroni and a worthwhile chocolate Manhattan. [Crain's]