Vettel Calls Next's New Menu 'Fascinating;' Sula Thinks Bernie's Shows Promise; More

Next's Terroir menu is "all about the wine. Remarkable wine. Challenging wine. Expensive wine." Over the course of the evening, Phil Vettel tries around 15 different wines alongside "novel food matches" that either "make perfect sense" or "violate long-held wine truisms." The best course of the meal features an egg cup holding artichoke puree, sautéed snails, dices of fried basil baguette and snail caviar. Heightening the dish are heated stones that turn artichoke and eucalyptus leaves into an "aromatic hike through the Northern California woods." Vettel promises "surprises throughout" and calls it "one of Next's most fascinating menus ever," albeit a very pricy one. [Tribune]

Bernie's Lunch & Supper "doesn't have a strong identity. But it shows good potential for developing one," writes Mike Sula. The Mediterranean-inspired menu features a "devastating" lamb hashwi that's an "eruption of sweet, sour and savory" and veal meatballs that "somehow distinguishes itself" under a blanket of "deeply umamic" tomato sauce. There are "deep powerful flavors in seemingly mundane dishes" even though a few "oddballs" don't quite come together, such as a plate of pickled mussels, goat cheese and raw jalapeno that "fail[s] to harmonize" and "bland, chewy" ricotta gnudi in a meaty mushroom-and-walnut brew. The only clear misses are a "too dry" roasted chicken and an "overcooked" pair of striped bass fillets while dessert includes options like a lemon icebox pie. [Reader]

Lowcountry offers "quality seafood and craft cocktails" in an unlikely area. The new Wrigleyville spot is the latest to get in on the seafood-in-a-bag concept, offering market-price selections by the pound. Heather Schroering calls it an "affordable seafood experience that's hard to come by in Chicago" and also finds a lot to like with the drinks. The Lowcountry Limeade features gin, lime juice, brown sugar and basil while the restaurant's version of a hurricane tastes like "fresh, fruit gummies." [RedEye]