Vettel: Ampersand's Plates Are Full of 'Depth;' More Praise for The Blanchard

Phil Vettel praises Ampersand for flavors that "carry so much richness and depth." Salads "are a strength" at the Ravenswood wine bar and include a "very good" Lyonnaise-style one and an "absolutely delicious" kale and quinoa salad lifted by roasted garlic dressing. Garganelli pasta with wild mushrooms and tallegio cheese is a "rich dish that should be comforting customers well into the winter" but chicken torchon is "too bland and too dry." The "very pretty and creative" desserts are a nice finish, highlighted by items like a trifle-like butterscotch pudding. [Tribune]

The critical accolades keep rolling in for The Blanchard. This time, Lisa Shames is impressed by well-executed French classics like a "decadent" Oeuf Outhier and a "two-bite wonder" of foie gras torchon. Entrees range from "divine" dover sole meunière in "luscious" brown-butter sauce to an "equally wonderful" blanquette de veau that has "supertender texture." As for dessert, you "can't go wrong" with any of them but the Pistachio Bombe is Shame's personal favorite. [CS]

Wyler Road is an ideal lunch spot in Logan Square, writes Amy Cavanaugh. The new sandwich shop/bar offers a solid clam belly sandwich with bacon, butter lettuce and lemon aioli as well as a reuben that has "great flavor." Other items include "giant" fried potato balls and "perfectly fried and light" cheese curds that are one of the best in Chicago. For drinks, a "delightful" watermelon basil daisy is a seasonal tequila cocktail worth trying. [TOC]