Even With the Upcharges, Vettel Awards Next Bistro Four Stars

Tribune critic Phil Vettel awards another four stars to Next in his review of the acclaimed restaurant's current Bistro menu, making note of the upcharges available to diners which for the first time provides flexibility at Next.

Vettel singles out the premier plat selections, writing that the fourth course is when it's difficult to resist swapping out dishes. He raves about the $66 guinea hen with braised radishes and pommes Anna, calling it "probably the single best dish on the entire menu. From its crisp, golden skin to its sigh-inducing, butter-soft meat, this bird is simply perfect." Make note, though the menu says it's enough to serve two, the portions are large enough to feed four, Vettel writes. As for the standard menu, the skate wing is of note, he adds.

Other substitutions (Next calls them "Chalkboard Specials") that grabbed the critic's attention include the "the silken slices of pig-head terrine," the medallion of foie gras torchon and the three-tier seafood tower. He also praised the baba ah rhum for dessert.

Next's streak of perfect reviews from Vettel remained intact, as the critic once more raved about the restaurant's service and cuisine in a similar ways as he's done for all of his four-star Next reviews. Next has rotated 13 menus over the course of its four years of operation.