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Critics Unimpressed by the Promontory; More

The Promontory
The Promontory
Photo: Nick Fochtman

The Promontory "just can't get it together" and is the first spot from the Longman & Eagle team that "hasn't left [Amy Cavanaugh] excited and eager to return." There are some positives like a "solid" hearth-roasted feta starter and a "really good" grilled lamb burger with a "nice mix of textures and flavors," but they're overshadowed by the missteps.

Cornbread panzanella is an "underseasoned" plate of lettuce, onions, feta, "dry" cornbread and other veggies, and ribs are similarly "dry and anemic and require effort to pull the meat off the bone." The cocktail list is also full of "duds"—a carbonated daiquiri "taste[s] off" while a root beer spiked with rye is equally "weak and watery." Simply put, the Promontory "needs to step it up," according to Cavanaugh. [TOC]

Mike Sula's experience at the Promontory isn't much better and he thinks it "falls far short of what [Hyde Parkers] deserve." Like Cavanaugh, he finds "odd dishes" like the panzanella salad with "cold, dry" corn bread as well as execution problems on spaghetti with "irregularly shaped cold veal meatballs, heavy on filler." Other problems arise in ribs with "mushy meat that taste[s] like it'[s] been boiled or steamed;" a lamb and vegetable stew that arrives "more or less dry;" and coq au vin that's also dry "but for a few gouts of cloying brown sauce."

It's not all bad though as a veal "osso bucco" with pork loin accompanied by bone marrow and arancini "works," while Korean-style grilled short ribs are a "nice, gnarly snack." Dessert "restylizes classics more successfully" as well as a Neapolitan ice cream sandwich is "worth trying" and a riff on baked Alaska makes for a "fine finish." [Reader]

Rock 'n Ribs BBQ is a worthy spot to get your fill of barbecue out in Lake Zurich, writes Thomas Witom. "Flavorful" Srircha Sticky Wings are "not your ordinary chicken wings" and make an "excellent starter." Baby pork ribs are "rave-worthy" and a beef brisket sandwich is "lean" and "tender." For dessert, a "sweet, gooey" pecan pie is the standout among the sweets. [Daily Herald]

Promontory

1539 E. 53 Street, Chicago, IL 60615 773 276 3600

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