With Beverly Kim and Johnny Clark's first restaurant now at the four-month mark, Phil Vettel heads up to Avondale to check in. And what does the longtime Tribune critic find at Parachute? "Magic" and "unexpected nuance" at a restaurant that's becoming one of the most critically-acclaimed spots in a while.
On the food side, Mr. V describes the oysters as "well-tended," the table snacks as "addictive," the bing bread as "irresistable." Virtually nothing is panned by the critic, as he's "mightily impressed by the chicken," writes that "you can't go wrong with anything labeled 'grilled,'" and for the desserts: "get 'em while you can." He "likes" the beverage program too, in case you're wondering.