The rapid and "thrilling" exclusion and inclusion of well executed dishes featuring a "bounty of seasonal produce" from Brian Huston's Boltwood excites the Reader's Mike Sula. He's even sorry he may never eat some of those "86'd or modified" dishes again and bets that those taking their place "are gone already in favor of something else."
However, some plates that get by Huston's "looming" presence at the kitchen's pass are "poorly conceived and badly executed." The most expensive menu item, a whole loup de mer at $36 "was nearly burnt," while a dish of lamb meatballs and shrimp was marred by a "garden's worth of herbs," and dessert appeared to be "an afterthought." However, Sula states that, overall, Boltwood is "good enough to go to Evanston for."
· Evanston's Boltwood is unpredictable—and that's not a complaint [Reader]
· All Boltwood Coverage [-ECHI-]
· Boltwood [Official Site]