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mfk Transports Cavanaugh to Spain; More Reviews

Photo: Marc Much

Amy Cavanaugh is enchanted with mfk. and gives it four stars. The small Spanish-influenced restaurant "captures the essence of seaside eating" with a menu that's "as straightforward as it is delicious."

Cured anchovies sweep her "right back across the ocean" to Spain while manchego and speck croquettes are "cheesy fried crowd-pleasers." Other successful bar bites include boquerones that "reward those who seek piquant flavors" and veggie dishes are not to be missed either as a bowl of greens with feta, purple carrots, onions and herbs is a "perfectly pleasant salad." Lastly, seared corn sprinkled with cotija and paprika is like an "elevated elotes" and quite simply a "dish you return for." [TOC]

Phil Stefani's 437 Rush gets a makeover that's "just enough to freshen things up," writes Laura Bianchi. The "most basic dishes misfire" like a "boring and too-salty" roast beef and a "dry" bacon-wrapped pork loin entrée, but a seared scallops with pickled mushrooms and truffle dressing has a "savory complexity." Other standouts include a "traditional and delicious" hearty spelt salad, rich raviolini that's "riveting" and a "perfectly cooked" prime ribeye fillet. For dessert try the tartufo, a "sweet-salty marriage" of cappuccino semifreddo, salted almonds and crumbled graham crackers. [Crain's]

In Oakbrook Terrace, Devon Seafood and Steak is attracting diners with "high quality" fish and "inventive entrees." Jennifer Olvera kicks things off with oysters that are "as fresh as can be" but have "room for improvement in the shucking department." The "simple and summery" Vietnamese crab spring rolls and strawberry-pistachio salad in sherry vinaigrette are also solid starter options. Entrees include an irresistible pretzel-crusted trout in a bacon-mustard vinaigrette and a flat iron steak with sweet potato frites. You'll want to end the meal with the crème brulee, a "winner" with juicy raspberries and chocolate-almond tuille. [Daily Herald]