Reader: Masada's 'Sensory Overload' Design At Odds With Uneven Menu

The extravagance and "sensory overload" of Logan Square's Masada ends up making the food feel "of little importance," according to the Reader's Mike Sula. The critic writes that the space is "an impressive, even awe-inspiring structure" that guests will have "no chance of starving" at. Sula marvels at a menu that includes dishes you would otherwise need to travel to the south suburb of Bridgeview to get (lamb spleen, kidneys and hearts for example).

But many of the menu's items "vary wildly in value and presentation," like the $7 plate of "mildly spicy tomato sauce and nothing else," or the $8 plate of chicken wings he calls "relatively extravagant." Sula's experience differs greatly from the one that the Red Eye's Michael Nagrant wrote about a month ago. However, the two do agree on the fetit betinjan, a dish of "sauteed eggplant plated with crunchy pita chips, all slathered in tahini dressing." But that can't negate the "peculiar" feeling he gets "plodding" through the menu.
· Less than meets the eye at Logan Square's Masada [Reader]
· All Masada Coverage [-ECHI-]