Mike Sula says that Osteria Langhe in Logan Square represents a rare commitment to "regional specialization," and expresses the wish that other recent Italian concepts would follow suit. The Reader critic swoons over the restaurant's fonduta in particular, stating that the menu is full of "simple, minimally seasoned dishes that rely heavily on the quality of their elemental ingredients." Mentioning the short-lived Baccala which also focused on the Piemonte region of Italy, Sula expresses hope that Osteria Langhe is met with more success by its neighborhood than that Wicker Park eatery found. [Reader]
[Photo: Timothy Hiatt]
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