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Bohemian House is 'One of Year's Best'; Más Disappoints Sula; More

Bohemian House
Bohemian House
Photo: Marc Much

Michael Nagrant thinks Bohemian House "might just be one of the best new restaurant openings of 2014." Whole beets are "expertly roasted" and served with a "velvety, sweet and tangy" pureed beet with crème fraiche dip for the "kind of dish you'd find at one of the high-end prix-fixe places in town." Spaetzle is tossed with shavings of beef tongue, which tastes like a "comforting, well-braised short rib" while chicken paprikash is "juicy to the bone" and accompanied by potato dumplings that are "cloud-like and provide serious carb-y comfort." Dessert features a dark chocolate custard with "rich, complex bitterness" complimented by sweet and salty caramel ice cream. [RedEye]

Mike Sula says "no más" to new Mexican eatery Más. Guacamoles are served with "dry and listless" sliced sections of beetroot, jicama and cucumber, and a scallop, shrimp and squid ceviche with numerous garnishes has a "dearth of flavor that feels almost creepy."

Underseasoning "sinks" other dishes where "torrents of competing ingredients create the culinary equivalent of white noise," but all the ingredients in the world can't "disguise the odor or taste" of a red snapper crudo. Tacos are problematic as well with a lamb shank barbacoa taco drenched in pureed peas and red curry "displaying multiple personality disorder." And it's an all-around disappointing affair as even the cocktails are "fleeting in character, quickly diluted by too much standard machine ice."

Herb sets out to redefine Thai food but the restaurant "doesn't know what it wants to be yet," according to Sula. Green papaya som tam "leans far too sweet … and with no sign of more umami-rich ingredients" but naked shrimp are "as fresh and searing as any [he's] had." Similarly, a mushroom soup is a "thick, rich, mild turmeric-infused curry" and the "tastiest thing on the menu" while the traditional tom yam soup is "devoid of acid and spice." Order the red snapper entrée that's a "good version" and "rich and satisfying" instead of the duck and steak dishes that are "overcooked." Desserts include coconut sticky rice topped with durian, and a small dish of tapioca infused with green pandanus leaf. [Reader]


5424 North Broadway, , IL 60640 (773) 944-9050 Visit Website

Bohemian House

11 West Illinois Street, , IL 60654 (312) 955-0439 Visit Website

Bar Mas

800 W Washington Blvd, Chicago, IL 60607 (312) 243-1995 Visit Website