Parachute has "got soul" and the menu features "assertive, bright, uncompromising flavors," writes Mike Sula. The dolsot bibimbap is "one of the best versions of it outside of a Seoul street market" while a modernist, flan-like boudin noir is a "mind-blowing dish" with "wildly divergent flavors and textures that still somehow seem right in place."
Homely dishes are just as "unforgettable," such as spare ribs with a minty shiso-leaf garnish that "feels almost narcotic." For dessert, an "astonishing take" on patbingsu pairs condensed milk ice cream with red-bean paste, cucumber ice and lovage leaves. [Reader]
Michael Nagrant thinks that Masada is a "great new restaurant that was definitely worth the wait." There are plenty of vegan options on the menu and Nagrant's favorite is the fetit betinjan, a mix of pita chips and sautéed eggplant with sweet and sour pomegranate, tahini and lemon dressing. There's also a "comforting stew" of brown lentils, eggplant and pomegranate molasses that's also a winner, while meat dishes include an "incredible array" of kebabs that are "brined and beautifully seasoned." The "well-crafted and balanced" cocktails are equally impressive and at $8 are an "incredible value." [RedEye]
Boka's reinvention continues to garner praise for the "refined yet playful" food of Lee Wolen. Lisa Shames is wowed by a dish of "transcendent" heirloom carrots with pistachios, amaranth and dates atop smoked goat cheese that is a "wonderful contrast of textures" and "pushes the creative envelope." Likewise, a roasted broccoli salad shows "how a vegetable dish should be done" while Wolen's famous roasted chicken with "impossibly golden and crisp skin" makes a return. For fish, loup de mer is complemented by preserved blood orange, capers, olives and artichoke hearts that "add an exotic allure." Finally, a frozen yogurt dessert has a "lovely sour tang and pairs perfectly" with pieces of tart rhubarb and mini macarons. [CS]