Laughing Bird's Bold Vision; Vettel Dines in Geneva; More

Although there are a few kinks to work out, Laughing Bird is a "very bold and unique vision of Filipino food worth checking out," writes Michael Nagrant. A salad of green papaya, grapefruit and oranges tossed in fish sauce is "maybe the best som tum" he's had, while the bistek-style beef is mixed with creamy mashed potatoes for a "comforting dish" that's reminiscent of a Salisbury steak TV dinner. "Flaky, buttery" empanadas stuffed with oyster mushrooms and teleggio show off other influences, but the traditional pancit palabok is "overcooked" and "bland." The meal is capped with s'mores chocolate cake featuring an "addictive" honey peanut brittle as garnish. [RedEye]

Out in Geneva, Phil Vettel checks out Niche and finds it as "sophisticated and technically skilled" as it ever was. The "delicate, buttery" gougeres are "well worth the $6 asking price," while the "flavors sing" on the crab and grits. Similarly, mussels are always a "fine choice;" a rack of lamb offers "beautifully pink, rich-flavored meat;" and grilled monkfish gets "nice textural yin-yang" from toasted orzo and farro and "sharp flavors" from charred broccolini. The "best sweet" for dessert is the milkshake torte, a malted mousse over chocolate-cookie crust topped with root beer whipped cream. [Tribune]

Terrace on Clark, one of the newest restaurants in the Loop, is "built for speed and easy-to-swallow pricing." Laura Bianchi starts with a salad that "successfully" pairs heirloom grape tomatoes with fried cheese curds, red onions and vinaigrette before moving onto a bowl of "rock-solid" chicken noodle soup, as well as a cup of potato leek that's "memorably rich with just a hint of texture." The Terrace burger is like a "grilled steak dinner on a bun," but the meat in the turkey salad sandwich and turkey club is "rather rubbery and pink." Don't skip out on dessert either, the flourless chocolate cake is a "slab of decadent darkness." [Crain's]