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TOC Says The Radler is Muddled; More

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The Radler
The Radler
Photo: Marc Much

Amy Cavanaugh thinks "there's just too much happening on each plate" at the Radler. Sausages are "juicy and perfectly cooked, but they're served with an unnecessary array of accompaniments that involve too many textures and flavors." Likewise, a veal schnitzel is crisp and "well cooked," but overdone with nuts and mandarin orange segments.

"Underseasoning is also an issue" in dishes such as a "flavorless" German potato salad and a cold-cut plate of meats that "lack(s) salt." The cocktails are a real surprise though, with the "exceedingly strong" "Rye? Because We Love You" being a winning combination of Old Overholt Rye and Kummel. So in the end, the "contemporary updates to classic dishes are great" but come "at the expense of cohesive, enjoyable food." [TOC]

Out in Gurnee, the "fresh and delicious" food at Hayashi is "top notch," writes Jennifer Billock. To start, the edamame is "always crisp and never overcooked" and the kaiso salad is a "fresh, sweet accompaniment that pair(s) perfectly" with it. Shrimp tempura is "tempura at its finest," but asparagus rolled in beef is "lukewarm and the meat a little tough." The maki rolls are "packed tight, the rice [is] cooked perfectly, and the fish [is] flavorful and melt-in-your-mouth tender," with the "incredible" unagi being a must-try and the "standout" crispy tuna roll having "nice interplay" between fish and tempura crunch. [Daily Herald]

The Radler

2375 North Milwaukee Avenue, , IL 60647 (773) 276-0270 Visit Website

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