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Vettel, Ruby Both Induct RPM Steak into Chicago's Club of Great Steakhouses

Trib and Chicago Mag's critics agree that the variety of meat at RPM Steak isn't to be missed.

RPM Steak
RPM Steak
Marc Sachs

Phil Vettel sampled several steaks at RPM Steak, coming away impressed with the dry-aged, grass-fed chops' "fine exterior char, rich beefy flavor and perfect-temperature (as ordered) interiors." He raved about the variety of options for cuts and sizes, saying they can "be almost disorienting." Still, in a short time, RPM has become a rarity, "a great steakhouse."

He said he'd return for two steaks: The bone-in ribeye and the "Duke," a filet carved from the heart of the ribeye. The risotto is topped table side with enough fresh-shaved white truffles "to make the $47 price tag acceptable."

Vettel also lauds the non-steak menu selections, including a coal-rested chicken with "garlicky flavor and lacquered skin that's almost brittle in its crispness." The service, for the most part, pleases Vettel, who only singles out the doggy-bag system.

Jeff Ruby also praises RPM Steak's serviceLike Vettel, Ruby praised the restaurant's space, and saying "the stunning cream-hued space feels smart and sophisticated yet neither flashy nor traditional."

RPM Steak has found its niche in the city as "the ambitious steak program makes Gene & Georgetti look like a bunch of slackers." Ruby singles-out rich dishes including the roasted bone marrow sprinkled with curry and smoked paprika and the seared foie gras served on grilled toast topped with apple and red onion jam. Ruby says the 24-oz bone-in cowboy steak was "one the five best steaks I've had in Chicago."

But beware the "the overpriced wine list and allow your server to steer you toward a Tuxedo...."

Ruby walked away happy with the Lettuce Entertain You enterprise: "Lettuce had its finger on the pulse of Chicago's restaurant scene back in the day, but things have changed. Now it is threatening to become the pulse itself."

In the same post, Ruby reviews Bohemian House. He advises diners to order carefully from the concise menu: "The servers are pleasant and knowledgeable, though they're of little use in this capacity because they adore everything." Ruby says to avoid Boho's deviled eggs and Alaskan halibut, but yes to the knackwurst and as for "the surprising crisp potato pancakes with cured salmon, apple preserves, kohlrabi, and dill? By all means."

[Edit: This story has been edited to fix a mischaracterization of Bohemian House's knackwurst]

Bohemian House

11 West Illinois Street, , IL 60654 (312) 955-0439 Visit Website

RPM Steak

66 West Kinzie Street, , IL 60654 (312) 284-4990 Visit Website

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