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Acanto is an Unbridled Success; Kokopelli Just Can't Compete; More

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Plus Dove's Luncheonette's experimental combinations are mostly a success.

Marc Much

Having replaced the elegant Henri, Acanto is "so polished it seem[s] like it [has] been there all along," according to Lisa Shames. Dollops of burrata, ribbons of cucumber and a chilled mint broth bring "creamy, refreshing and herbaceous" tones to a classic cantaloupe and prosciutto di Parma starter, and an "elevated" polenta has crispy pancetta strips for texture and watercress leaves to "help cut through the richness."

Pastas are "terrific," especially the "perfectly al dente" duck-egg spaghetti while the crusts on the pizzas are "both chewy and crispy," with the finocchiona and fennel pie being Shames’ favorite. Suckling pig done three ways has that "tender, buttery meat" you’d expect and a mix of green lentils, kale and chanterelles makes it a "beautiful and delicious plate." For dessert, panna cotta is "smartly pair[ed]" with a tart cherry soup. [CS]

In a neighborhood full of taco options, Kokopelli "just doesn’t cut it," writes Amy Cavanaugh. It starts poorly with a "sad" pineapple salsa that’s "way too sweet" and served with "stale" tortilla chips. Tacos are just as "disappointing;" a "huge pile of mushy" trout or "flavorless" piece of fried mahi mahi pales in comparison to the fish tacos from Big Star, Takito Kitchen and Antique Taco. Even drinks can’t salvage the experience as the Margarita Kokopelli is "weak and watery." [TOC]

Sam Faye thinks that while "some dishes work better than others" at Dove’s Luncheonette, they’re all "100 percent unique, and that alone coupled with enough good food is reason to at least check it out." A "crazy good" beets appetizer is enhanced by pickled raisins, mint, sesame seeds and a mole sauce, while "all potatoes should taste like" the side of pepper and potato hash. The best dish on the menu is the chicken fried chicken as it has a "nice fry and stick-to-your-ribs tasty gravy," but don’t sleep on the "surprisingly not too heavy" pozelo rojo with "good meat, great spices." [The Infatuation]


449 N Clark St, Ste 301, Chicago, IL 60654 (312) 726-5656 Visit Website

Dove's Luncheonette

1545 North Damen Avenue, , IL 60622 (773) 645-4060 Visit Website


18 S Michigan Ave, Chicago, IL 60603