Continuing his trend of reviewing every iteration of Next, Chicago Tribune critic Phil Vettel weighs in on the restaurant's latest: Trio. Unsurprisingly, the restaurant again receives four stars for its look back at the Evanston restaurant where Grant Achatz made his bones (so to speak).
Though executive chef Dave Beran and his team never had the opportunity to eat at Trio, Vettel praises them for creating "sensory nostalgia" throughout the meal. From the olive-oil ice cream sandwich with parmesan black pepper cookies to the black truffle explosion, Beran and crew make "a memorable nostalgia trip" for those that had the opportunity to eat there. For those that haven't, the critic says that "the menu is fascinating enough, and delicious enough, to stand on its own."