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Sula Thinks Dove's is a Soulful Diner; Vettel Says BoHo is Brilliantly Unique; More

Wicker Park finally has the diner it needs and Cavanaugh checks out the reopened Juno.

Dove's Luncheonette
Dove's Luncheonette

Dove’s Luncheonette has "enough soul to power it" for a long time, according to Mike Sula. The latest hit from One Off Hospitality offers a "supersize" taco with smoked brisket, pico de gallo, chile vinaigrette and chicharrones that "dwarfs its brethren" Big Star, along with chile rellenos that "recall delicate, oversize fried squash blossoms." Enchiladas are "absolutely essential eating," as is the posole rojo with "rich, full-bodied, intensely porky depths" full of "luscious meat that falls apart at the touch." Don’t skimp on the veggies either—roasted beets are served cold and dressed in sesame seeds, pickled raisins and a hint of chocolatey mole negro—while desserts include an "outstanding" tart and creamy Atlantic pie from Hoosier Mama. [Reader]

Phil Vettel writes that "there’s nothing in Chicago quite like [Bohemian House]," where Jimmy Papadopoulos "shows flashes of skill and creativity and a fine sense of flavor and balance." A bone marrow appetizer is topped with "very good" steak tartare and the knackwurst in a blanket is "cleverly presented" and resembles a Chicago hot dog. Grilled chicken paprikash is "golden-brown and moist" and is Vettel’s favorite entrée, while other winners include the "note-perfect" pork schnitzel and a "wonderfully light" spaetzle. The kitchen "misses badly" on a "shockingly puny" $24 roasted duck dish, but desserts turn it back around with great kolacky and a "cute" coffee & doughnuts creation. [Tribune]

Amy Cavanaugh is glad Juno is back and praises the restaurant for its amazing sushi. The sashimi is the "clear star" as the fish is "pristine" and served with a house soy sauce that’s "deeper and richer" than normal. The "King Juno" are "perfectly constructed single bites" of tuna wrapped around rice and topped with spicy crab while the tamago nigiri, a "custard-like" slice of omelet, is as "light as can be." Even the spicy tuna roll is an "elegant version of an oft-ruined roll." For dessert, pine ice cream is a must-try and "basically tastes like a walk in the winter woods." [TOC]

Bohemian House

11 West Illinois Street, , IL 60654 (312) 955-0439 Visit Website

Juno Restaurant

2638 N Lincoln Avenue, Chicago, IL 60614 872 206 8662

Dove's Luncheonette

1545 North Damen Avenue, , IL 60622 (773) 645-4060 Visit Website

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