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Cavanaugh Finds Comfort in RPM Steak's Raw Bar; Bar Takito's Food is Wonderful But Slow; More

RPM Steak is best enjoyed on an expense account.

Marc Much

Amy Cavanaugh declares RPM Steak an "expense-account restaurant" reserved for those who "wouldn't think twice about ordering a $115 seafood platter" (which she didn't do). Heaping praise on the raw bar selections, a "well-seasoned steak tartare" and "slabs of yellowtail" that come "dotted with a spicy, peppery sauce," she finds less pleasure elsewhere. The letdown one-two punch of deceptively "cute" but "dry" Parker House rolls and a suggested plate of asparagus and shrimp ("too chewy") are only eased by Paul McGee's "proficiently executed" classic cocktails.

Things pick up on the food front with a filet of bison that is "very tender and lean" and which features a "stronger, slightly sweeter flavor" compared to beef. A dessert of baked Alaska, "flamed tableside," is updated with lemon sorbet, as well as an off menu treat of "fluffy blueberry cotton candy" provides a "whimsical and fun" end to the meal. Cavanaugh is left wishing "the whole dinner had the same sense of fun." [TOC]

Aimee Levitt says that, while the food at Bar Takito is "wonderful," it arrives with"excruciating slowness." She has great praise for the far-reaching destinations that chef David Dworshak takes diners on with his menu, especially the popcorn-butterscotch mousse, which is the "most surprising dish." The octopus a la plancha is "worth waiting for" and includes "crisp and caramelized" tentacles served with "tender, lemony potatoes" which do a good job of soaking up excess olive oil. But the portion size is so small it leaves her "desperately" wanting more.

The speed in which the consistently small portions come out of the kitchen, whether it's during a busy dinner service or at lunchtime when Bar Takito is "empty," is too long to satisfy hunger pangs. Ultimately, despite great food and a friendly, accommodating staff, Bar Takito is "not a place to go when you're hungry." [Reader]

Despite a "confusing" start, Real Urban Barbecue's "stellar meats" make up for the bewildering ordering process, according to Jennifer Billock. A filling "stewlike" beef barley soup is best shared to leave room for "new favorites" like burnt ends and golden corn bake. Side dishes of spinach and mac and cheese were simply "average," lacking an expected "kick." That kick is in full force on the complimentary side of spicy pickles, which are delcared "volcano-hot." She advises waiting to sauce your meat when you get to your table, where four to five sauces await. The "awkward flavor combination" found in the pecan bar left much to be desired, however. [Daily Herald]

RPM Steak

66 West Kinzie Street, , IL 60654 (312) 284-4990 Visit Website