Next received a rare knock from a major publication this week when Bloomberg's Ryan Sutton questioned the reasoning behind the restaurant's newest iteration as a steakhouse when there are "oodles of steakhouses." Sutton states that, while some dishes shine (salmon coulibiac) many others miss the mark by a long shot. Those failed dishes include La Grenouille (frog legs that "have as much flavor as industrially-produced soy protein") and Lobster Thermidor ("a one-note mess that helps kill your appetite").
But the most disappointing words were reserved for the beef course. Sutton says that, while he was impressed by how it was cooked, the beef "isn't memorable." He adds that he has had more complex beef dishes at other Chicago restaurants (Grace, Elizabeth), which were also served near the end of tasting menus and were portioned more thoughtfully within that framework.
After giving props to Dave Beran ("one of our country's finest chefs"), Sutton concludes by saying "Next's steakhouse menu is a skip—especially for travelers."
· Alinea's Grant Achatz Brings $724 Beef Dinner to Chicago's Next [Bloomberg]
· All Next Coverage [~ECHI~]