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HBFC Nails Fried Chicken; Critics Split on Travelle

Honey Butter Fried Chicken
Honey Butter Fried Chicken
Photo: Timothy Hiatt

Honey Butter Fried Chicken's "memorable fried chicken" is worth going out of the way for, writes Kate Bernot. The chicken has a "burst of spice that's zippy, smoked and salty," and when paired with the honey butter, attains "sweet-salty nirvana." The meat "remains juicy, even the often-dry pieces," while the "savory flavor" shines in the Fried Chicken Sammy. Sides rotate seasonally and include pimento mac 'n' cheese, a raw kale salad and a roasted sweet potato salad, and a "dump cake" dessert "is as rich and comforting as it is unfortunately named." [RedEye]

Mike Sula thinks Travelle struggles with consistency in trying to cover too much. There's "delicate yet aggressively piney and funky-tasting" snapper and anchovy crudo as well as a selection of seacuterie that includes a "stiff" bouillabaisse aspic bombe with shellfish that's "too cold to glean any flavors from." Beef tartare in marrow bone is "one of the more satisfying bites on the menu," but grilled octopus is spoiled by "mushy, oversalted" eggplant caponata, and a halibut fillet is "overcooked." Even desserts stumble with "soggy slabs" of Nutella baklava and an almond olive oil cake "whose dryness was matched by the mealiness of a roasted white peach and its accompanying strip of pasty gelee." [Reader]

Lisa Shames has a more enjoyable time at Travelle. Saganaki wings are "plump" and a squeeze of lemon "adds a nice acidic balance to the juicy meat," while the hamachi crudo "earns [a] nod of approval for its simple preparation." The "flavors of the sea come through loud and clear" in the seacuterie, and the suckling pig has "ubercrispy" skin topping a thin layer of "luscious fat" thanks to a dip in the deep fryer. To finish, Shames' favorite dessert is the Moroccan baked apple with pieces of spiced cake and a "refreshing lemon verbena essence." [CS]

Honey Butter Fried Chicken

3361 North Elston Avenue, , IL 60618 (773) 478-4000 Visit Website

Travelle

330 N Wabash Ave Fl 2, Chicago, IL 60611 312-923-7705 Visit Website

Honey Butter Fried Chicken

3361 N. Elston Ave., Chicago, IL

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