Tre Soldi is an "exceptionally solid addition to the city's Italian dining lineup," writes Anthony Todd. He starts with the fagioli, a combination of "fresh, local beans" and "huge pieces of crisp pancetta," before moving onto the impressive chittarine with clams that are "tender and [give] the dish a whiff of the sea" that almost makes you forget you're in River North. The pan-roasted chicken is "perfectly cooked" and drenched in a sauce that's "almost worthy of an entire special trip" while the pizzas are "crisp, thin, chewy" and compete with the city's best. Desserts "don't yet live up to expectations" though, as a riff on tiramisu tastes like "nothing more than a cup full of cake icing dusted with cocoa powder." [TOC]
Sam Worley also thinks Tre Soldi is a fine Italian eatery that "turns out good, if not thrilling" plates. The veggies in the fagioli and a plate of beets are "cooked perfectly," and "expertly battered" stuffed squashed blossoms are served with a "velvety" tomato and basil sauce. The pastas are "solidly cooked and decent enough," pizzas have a "satisfyingly chewy" crust, and the half chicken has "killer" seared skin. "Too sweet" drinks include the Branca Menta, which "uses citrus to bring out the more unfortunate mouthwash flavors latent," while the tiramisu is a "dense, grainy pile" of white chocolate mascarpone. [Reader]
Mott St. is a "trip worth taking" according to Lisa Shames. Oyster mushrooms take on a "rich, steak-like quality" with an accompanying miso butter sauce "adding to the tasty umami effect," while leeks get a "nice char flavor" and "some kick" from a spicy Korean sauce. The "everything" wings feature "juicy meat" under sesame and poppy seed-encrusted skin and a "complex" bowl of buckwheat noodles is served cold in a "refreshing" vinegar broth with beef brisket, half a quail egg and slices of turnips and radishes. Finally, the mini chocolate-dipped banana with peanuts, peppercorns and salt is "delicious and fun." [CS]
CH Distillery may change your mind about vodka and gin. Kate Bernot takes a trip to the new West Loop spot and finds the vodka to be a "clean, crisp version" that "lets other liquors and mixers come to the fore." The Moscow Mule is "miles lighter and more citrusy" than other variants; serrano chili-infused vodka adds a "mellow but noticeable heat" to the 'Rhymes With Orange' cocktail; and the 'Oxycontin Cocktail' has an "intensely smoky, almost peat-like quality." For snacks, the smoked whitefish spread has a "satisfying blend of herbs and salt" to tide you over until dinner. [RedEye]
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