Travelle Needs Tweaks; County's BBQ is Uneven

Travelle [Photo: Timothy Hiatt]

While "some of the food is confusing and inconsistent" at Travelle, there is still a lot that hits the right marks according to Michael Nagrant. Red snapper en papillote is "incredibly flaky and wafts a tempting thyme vapor" while a "silky" ravioli is stuffed with "tender rich" short rib. For small plates, "Hooters could learn a thing or two" from the saganaki chicken wings, but "bland" octopus mars a seacuterie dish and drinks feel "incredibly overpriced." The "destination-worthy desserts" include an "incredible" grapefruit pithivier, a puff pastry topped with cake and bruleed grapefruit that's "one of the best" Nagrant's had in a while. [RedEye]

County isn't your traditional barbecue joint and the "side dishes and aesthetics steal the attention away from the meat." Amy Cavanaugh writes, "You'll want to get an order" of the smoky bacon-topped deviled eggs before moving onto the barbecue, which includes hot links with "crackly, snappy casing and great texture," and chicken that's "nicely spiced." Unfortunately, the brisket, pork burnt ends and ribs "don't have much flavor" and some of the sauces aren't "remotely reminiscent" of their Southern brethren so instead order the collard greens and sweet corn pudding. And leave room for "nostalgic" desserts like raw cookie dough and Snickers ice cream. [TOC]

Fat Rice lives up to the hype and long lines, allowing diners to immerse themselves in the food of Macau. Phil Vettel loves the "awe-inspiring" signature arroz gordo that's akin to "paella with quadruple the protein," as well as a "smoky yet refreshing" green papaya fish salad and "delicious" Szechwan green beans. Pork and shrimp potstickers look like a disaster but deliver on taste while piri-piri chicken and pepper steak have "a bit more oomph than one might anticipate." A "very pleasant" pineapple upside-down cake is one of the "surprisingly effective" dessert options. [Trib]