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Vu Sua is an Inharmonious Mess; Homeslice's Pies Are Worth Skipping; More

Vu Sua
Vu Sua
Photo: Thrillist

The "overreaching" menu at Vu Sua "breaks a number of culinary taboos" and is "incompatible, discordant, frightening," writes Mike Sula. A selection of spring rolls, in a pool of "goopy, thick, black-bean-and-soy-based sauce" and consisting of "gluey cylinders" stuffed with rice noodles and veggies and topped with various bites, are "inharmonious architectures," while seafood is often "spoiled by an excess of saucing and garnish." Nearly every dish is "smothered by a surfeit of overpowering sweet and lugubrious sauces," and unsurprisingly, the "best things on this menu are the most straightforward and traditional" like a bowl of pho with a "clean, fragrant broth that could stand up to any on Argyle Street." [Reader]

If you've ever wondered what Oregon-style pizza is like, Marissa Conrad suggests, "it's not worth investigating" if Homeslice is any indication. The menu "can't seem to make up its own mind," the house sauce has no discernable difference from regular marinara, and "puffy, bland dough overwhelmed all other ingredients" on the pies. Giant calzones have "disappointingly limp" crusts, but appetizers such as beer-basted breadsticks featuring "huge chunks" of creamy goat cheese and the Sheffield salad with rich lemon-poppyseed dressing are passable options. [TOC]

Rio's in Addison is a "delicious taste of South America," according to Izidora Angel. Fried strips of pita with a trio of sauces are a "great amuse," while sauces and spices add an "exotic, truly differentiating aspect" to even the simplest dishes like steak over pasta. A few misses include a white fish ceviche with "stringy bites" and the cau cau de mariscos is "overly reliant on tough calamari." But in the end, the anticuchos, skewers of tender chunks of beef heart, are "everything a good carnivore could ever wish for and quite possibly the best thing we ate all night." [Daily Herald]

Homeslice

938 W Webster Avenue, Chicago, IL 60614 541 973 9797

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