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Storefront Company Deserves Recognition; Vu Sua is Just a Little Off; More

Storefront Company
Storefront Company
Photo: Tim Hiatt

Storefront Company is an under-appreciated gem that should be packed every night, writes Phil Vettel. "Silky" salmon slices imbued by a beet cure are a "revelation," and when placed on brioche crackers and accented with fennel jam and cream it "manages to be familiar and new at once." A "fine rabbit composition" is composed of an array of rabbit loin medallions, rabbit liver mousse and pickled offal along with cauliflower ravioli and mushroom-Madeira sauce that adds a "balancing sweetness." Fish entrees like the monchong and golden tilefish are "notable for their unusual varieties as for their delicious execution," while "you don't need to be a vegetarian to love [Bryan] Moscatello's mushroom dish." Finish with the ruby-grapefruit pudding with goat-milk ice cream and oat crumble and you have a three-star meal. [Tribune]

French-Vietnamese Vu Sua is a bit "off" according to Marissa Conrad. "Beautifully plated" spring rolls with a pile of "tender" lobster and foie gras is unfortunately rolled in rice paper that's "thick and gummy;" meaty cod's panko breading "overwhelms" a thin chocolate sauce's delicate spices; and the duck "pairs well" with an apple-raisin reduction but is accompanied by "tasteless" sautéed spinach and "frail, bitter" stalks of white asparagus. However, Conrad does recommend a few well-executed dishes like the "flavorful" seafood soup, the five types of sashimi and the braised Asian pear dessert that's taken from "simple to stunning with a sophisticated, sweet-savory sake reduction." [TOC]

Michael Nagrant thinks there are many better alternatives to Flour & Stone. The pizzas are "not nearly as blistered, smoky and seasoned" as the ones from Coalfire or Spacca Napoli, and the "thin, crispy, lightly-leavened edges" are not the authentic Brooklyn-style pies they're billed to be. Compounding the problem is an acidic tomato sauce that "pounds you on the head" and could "use a touch more salt and a bit of sugar to mellow things out." The only reprieve comes from a "pretty perfect" chopped salad, an "impeccable mix" of greens, apple, Gorgonzola and sweet Italian vinaigrette. Otherwise, it's a crusty dud. [Sun-Times]

Storefront Company

1941 W North Avenue, Chicago, IL 60640

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