In an early look at One Off Hospitality's Nico Osteria (open for two weeks), RedEye critic Michael Nagrant gushes. Framing the review with background on the model and singer Nico and breaking it up into sections named for Velvet Underground songs, he says the restaurant, a departure from past One Off projects, is a "showy, mesmerizing knockout" serving "impeccable seafood and clean, light flavors."
Nagrant highlights the puree of fava bean flavored with bottarga, scarpinocc pasta, "deeply comforting" Neapolitan-style ragu, and Amanda Rockman's "hand-crafted gelatos and complex well-crafted desserts." He does grumble about the service, saying "at times the place felt understaffed."
Overall, Nagrant deems Nico worthy of 3 1/2 exclamation points out of 4 and calls it "the place you should celebrate all of tomorrow's parties."
· Review: Nico Osteria [RedEye]
· All Nico Osteria Coverage [-ECHI-]