Masaki is Sushi Excellence; Gogi's BBQ Satisfies

Phil Vettel thinks Masaki is the best sushi restaurant flying under the radar. A five-course tasting menu includes a "beautiful, vertical assortment of king crab, octopus, and sweet shrimp, offering a nice range of textures," while the nigiri omakase progresses from "light to fuller flavors," with a "terrific little bite" of carved squid nestling soft sea urchin in between. There are a few missteps from the kitchen like a beef sukiyaki dish that's "overcooked and dry," which also afflicts the seared duck breast. A fruit plate ends the meal, featuring nori-wrapped discs of citrus sorbet and a bit of toasted meringue. [Trib]

There are some issues that need to be worked out at Gogi before it reaches its full potential, according to Amy Cavanaugh. The meats are "delicious," like the samgyeopsal cooked with bean sprouts and kimchi that makes for a "spicy, satisfying bite," but unfortunately the grill "just doesn't get hot enough to really cook the meat." The "crisp and savory" kimchijeon is "worth getting too" while the makgeioli, Korean rice wine, is "worth a trip on its own." Give it some time and Gogi will be "the best barbecue—and party—in town." [TOC]

The Bentley Tavern is a "bland and unimaginative" mess that's "badly made." Sam Worley sits through "chewy" steak and duck sauced in something that "tastes like a can of Campbell's broth thickened with roux," along with an "awful" duck confit agnolotti. "Fishy" scallops come to the table "lukewarm" while a "flavorless" half chicken is accompanied by brussels sprouts "charred on the outside and cooked to death in the middle." And just when it seems like it can't get worse, a black cod entrée is served with asiago risotto that's "chalky and revolting." [Reader]