Phil Vettel thinks it’s only a matter of time before he gives Goosefoot four stars. The “intensely personal” restaurant delivers “uncommonly beautiful” plates of plump seared scallop, loup de mer and steak dishes. The consommé-poached filet is a “revelation” and beef and carrots have “never looked more artistic.” Likewise, the cheese course is “worthy of a magazine cover,” while a chocolate cube dessert is “extraordinarily complex.” But most importantly, Vettel says there is a “palpable joy” to the food that is impossible to miss. [Tribune]
Bread & Wine manages to be a “sophisticated” but “warm and homey” gem in an area starved of good restaurants—the Northwest Side. Crispy pierogi are bathed with “rich and tangy” herbed crème fraiche, larded with “silky” duck confit and would be approved by Michael Nagrant’s grandmother. Freshly shucked green garbanzos on the flaky striped bass “rife with the taste of spring” and are a “revelation.” Best of all is the salted caramel popcorn panna cotta that is an “incredible custard expression” of Garrett Popcorn. It is “creamy, reminiscent of an indulgent crème brulee.” [Sun-Times]
Nellcôte is still struggling to find consistency and figure itself out but there's a lot to like, writes Julia Kramer. She thinks the “best pizzas are the most unusual ones” and the “best pastas are the simplest ones.” The “gorgeously made” spaghetti is tossed with hot Calabrian chili and dusted with mojama while squid-ink strozzapreti is “strikingly well-executed” and piled with more Maine lobster than “any restaurant ought to give a diner for $11.” The “strong and beefy cut” dry-aged rib eye is served with beets of “superlative sweetness,” and a duo of grilled loin and braised neck are accompanied by a few “pillowy” gnocchi. [TOC]
The new weekend brunch at Three Aces is rocking diners away. Kate Bernot tries a slightly smoky egg with pork scrapple that has the “pleasing texture of a perfect falafel.” The sweets are “surprisingly balanced” with sourdough waffles that come with a side of airy cinnamon whipped cream “you’ll want to lick off the plate.” At Fritz Pastry, the vegetable hash binds together “perfectly” cooked carrots, zucchini and two types of potatoes with tofu. However, the vegan cherry-chocolate pancakes are marred by an “overzealous” smear of chocolate atop the pile adding to a “sticky heft.” [RedEye]
Eater Chicago intern Jeffy Mai contributed this article.