David Tamarkin says his "recent meals at the Lobby in the Peninsula have been more satisfying than any I ever had at Avenues." And it's for this reason he dropped a rare five-star review on the hotel's open-room restaurant that is now being presided over by chef Lee Wolen (Eleven Madison Park, Moto).
Tamarkin calls Wolen's food "deeply delicious and palpably soulful." He praises dishes like the carrot salad with pureed raisins and bulgar wheat that is "fried to achieve the addictive pop of Rice Krispies;" the scallops served with in an orange urchin broth and the slow-roasted lamb cooked sous-vide. But feels Wolen's chicken for two is the standout, which he calls a "spectacle" that is presented in a few ways making the "best chicken you've ever eaten has just gotten better."
· The Lobby | Restaurant Review [TOC]
Lee Wolen [Photo: Peninsula Chicago]