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The taste of duty

The Village Voice's Lauren Shockey talks to a bunch of NYC critics about their food dislikes. Sam Sifton, who "never liked ramps much" explains: "If Manhattan chefs don't serve ramps in spring, the thought police come and take their farm-to-table badges away... I have learned to enjoy the ramps. They taste to me of the season. They taste of duty." [VV via Eater National]