Piccolo Sogno Has Style; Tamarkin Finds Perennial Virant Inconsistent; More!

Piccolo Sogno may not be "the ultimate dining experience" for Pat Bruno, but he finds it quite enjoyable. He appreciates that the menu "does not try to be everything to everybody." He praises the ravioli and tortellini and finds the polletto alla griglia "indulgently flavorful." The branzino to him is "immaculate perfection" right up there with versions Bruno has enjoyed in Italy. The desserts "go beyond the usual and ordinary, slipping nicely into the sublime," and he highlights the panna cota and the Sicilian ricotta cheesecake. [Sun Times]

David Tamarkin has mixed feelings about Perennial Virant. His overall impressions are "the room is cool and reserved, the food is mostly elegant and restrained, and the service is awkwardly familiar and hoverish." He finds the local nature of the menu to be a blessing and a curse, "as the restaurant lives and will die by this philosophy, so too do the dishes." He thinks the seasonal salmon and peas is "an underwhelming plate of food" and some of the a la carte choices are "equally disappointing." He does think that chef Paul Virant "exhibits an unusually keen sense of flavor and restraint" finding the simple food "that has clearly been fussed over" so "damn delicious." However, he still thinks "you’ll find yourself the victim of the restaurant’s inconsistencies," and wonders, "Is inconsistency just the nature of the beast here?" [TOC]

Daniel Zemans thinks Pizano's has earned its spot among the top Chicago pizzerias. Zemans opts for the Jack Brickhouse pizza and finds the sausage "outstanding" and the mushrooms "flavorful" and "fresh." The sauce, which is more like a "tomato medley" was so good that he was left "craving more." He thinks that no one excels in both thick and thin pizza "as well as Pizano's," with the crust "a crisp, crunchy and chewy piece of bread that would be addictive even if served bare." Overall, they put out "pies that are so good that eating them can be a religious experience." [Slice]