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Ruby channels Escoffier

Next-door-reversed-sign-sm.jpgIf Auguste Escoffier could dine at Next, would he enjoy it? That's what Chicago magazine chief dining critic Jeff Ruby sets out to uncover in the July issue. Instead of a straightforward review, Ruby channels Escoffier, the man who set the tone for modern cuisine and whose cooking the Next Paris 1906 menu is based upon. "At last! Here are modern chefs with the requisite respect for good ingredients and the imagination to use my book as a starting point rather than an end." There's a lot more and, suffice to say, Escoffier seems to approve. [Chicago]

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