Hubbard Inn Fails to Impress Sula, Bruno; Vettel Praises Wicker Park Sushi

Mike Sula can't seem to figure out how Ernest Hemingway has any connection to the Hubbard Inn even if the place is allegedly inspired by his life. He thinks Bob Zrenner’s menu “has very little you wouldn’t have seen on dozens of others around town over the past five years” and that the food pales in comparison to what Benjamin Schiller (freelancing from the Boka Group) has to offer with the “sweet daiquiri, citrusy Southside, and absinthe-laced Death in the Afternoon” cocktails. He finds the margherita pizza to have “rubbery, barely melted mozzarella—recall specimens native to public-school cafeterias everywhere,” and the “spongy, pan-fried sweetbreads” to have the “texture of scrambled eggs.” Simply put, he feels the food seems “ just more fodder to keep the drinkers’ stomachs absorbent.” [Chicago Reader]

Pat Bruno agrees with Sula when it comes to the menu at Hubbard Inn. He describes it as a "raft of dishes that you have undoubtedly seen floating by in so many of the newer restaurants around town.” Bruno is confused about the focus of the food as words like “contemporary American,” “European continental” and “international fusion, tapas and bar food,” are thrown around, yet most of the dishes are “safe ? sort of like coloring inside the lines.” He felt the potato chips and dip “were a snooze” but the lobster club sandwich was “pure enjoyment.” He was also more than pleased with the “Moroccan vegetable” plate. As for the dessert, flourless chocolate cake and cheesecake, are “acceptable but not exciting in any way.” [Sun Times]

Phil Vettel seems to be impressed with the recent airport dining options now that airports have enhanced security and airlines no longer feed passengers. In his mind, Wicker Park, a new sushi spot in Terminal 2 at O’Hare, “might be the best of the bunch.” He finds the restaurant “uncommonly pretty” and the food “surprisingly good.” He is “especially fond of the sashimi ? in thicker-than-usual slices.” The sushi rolls are “fun” but can be “expensive” as the namesake Wicker Park roll will set you back $22. The beverage choices are “impressive” with wines by the glass, sake, shochu and cocktails such as the “Skinny Buddha.” Although Vettel doesn’t think this will be “Chicago’s next sushi destination ? as airport oases go, you can’t ask for much more.” [Tribune]