Eater Chicago intern Katie Johnson contributed this article.
Telegraph Wine Bar [Photo: Grub Street Chicago]
Phil Vettel warns restaurants of developing "Logan envy," in reference to the recent boom of "independent quirkily personable restaurants" popping up in Logan Square, namely his newest crush, Telegraph. This three-month-old wine bar has an impressive wine list, however, most, like Vettel will be more impressed by the food. Head chef John Anderes (an Avec alumn), will keep you on your toes, with dishes changing as fast, if not faster than the Chicago weather forecast. In keeping with the seasonality of ingredients, Vettel despairs at the loss of a tartine spread of "charred eggplant topped with white anchovies and heirloom tomatoes" since his last visit. Good thing they are now accepting reservations, because if your favorite item on the current menu hasn't disappeared yet "it's about to." [Trib]
Newbie Sun-Times food critic Michael Nagrant finds MorSo promising, but ultimately disappointing. Last week, Kate Schmidt found the crab cake a "standout", whereas Nagrant deems it the "love child of egg foo young and a drunken Emeril Lagasse fantasy" but also "heart-threateningly oversalted." Nagrant admires Matt Maroni's ambitious menu and passion as a food truck pioneer, but feels he needs "just a bit more seasoning." Ultimately, he feels that at MorSo the "ideas are grand, but his crew generally can’t execute them." [Sun-Times]
David Tamarkin gives Al Dente in Irving Park two out of five starts, finding chef Javier Perez's dishes skilled in technique, but unsurprising in execution. In perhaps another case of a chef with great ambitions and intentions, but not quite enough seasoned experience, Tamarkin thought the gnocchi with boar ragu a bit of an overdone bore. He was, however, quite interested in the promise of the one housemade dessert, a bread pudding with squash. Tamarkin hopes to see more of this "innovative instinct" with unexpected flavor combinations from Perez in the future. [TOC]