While Chicago drags its heels in getting Three Aces its liquor license, Taylor Street's much-buzzed-about rock 'n' roll pub will open for lunch starting Tuesday.
The restaurant, owned by Lyle Aker (Five Star, Angels & Kings) and Anthony Potenzo (Sushi Samba Rio), hoped to open last week, but instead had a friends and family preview over the weekend. Chef Matt Troost (Fianco) tweaked his already-promising menu to refine what was and wasn't working.
So starting tomorrow between 11:30 a.m and 4 p.m., pop over to Taylor Street to indulge in Troost's American menu inspired by local and sustainable ingredients. Navigate the various sections (Farm, Mill, Sea, Barn, Pizzetta, etc) and look for things like the arancini with melted fontina and tender-as-hell braised oxtail; the Ace burger with fiscalini cheese, aioli and bacon jam (yes, bacon jam!); toothsome housemade papardelle bolognese; or the pizzetta with farm egg, pancetta, romano and parmesan. Don't miss Troost's bar bites like duck fat chips and pork fried nuts.
Once they get their liquor license, the beer program will feature only American brews, with Chicago representing all the drafts, Midwest beer filling out "domestics," and "imports" coming from the rest of the country. But while you can currently only order soft drinks, the bar still exudes a cool rock vibe. Touches like vintage nudie mag photos peeking out from the back bar; an Elvis pinball hiding in a nook; subtle "porn" wallpaper; a peek-a-boo wall showing Fornasetti images; a hand-painted Italian film noir mural; and reclaimed light fixtures from Joliet Prison all play into Three Aces "gastropunk" persona.
And the Tony Fitzpatrick sign that pays homage to Chicago's immigrant culture through images depicting unions, industry and the stockyards? Well, that welcomes you to the joint. Think of this as Taylor Street 2.0.