While it may still need a little time to sort out all of the kinks, Julia Kramer thinks Found is the restaurant Evanston has been looking for. Despite the frantic and uneven service, the kitchen puts out "bewilderingly juicy" lamb meatballs that are "understated and satisfying," and roasted Brussels sprouts and squash dressed in a "compelling, pleasing" heat of harissa. Chicken liver mousse is "voluptuous and creamy" while an entree plate of whole Rushing Waters trout is set alongside a "green goddess aioli" sauce Kramer would "eat on pretty much anything." Desserts are "simple and perfunctory" like the pot de crème, and the only major fault lies in the cocktail program that produces a pink lady that tastes "like a Shirley Temple" and a dark and stormy "with the flavor profile of flat Coke." [TOC]
Also out in Evanston, Creperie Saint Germain is serving up a "fine interpretation" of French classics. Thomas Witom starts with "tasty" tarte aux oignons before moving onto a "sensational" canard confit with "moist slow-cooked" duck, braised cabbage and fines herbes in a port wine sauce. Similarly, the galette forestiere is a "harmonious medley" of Amish chicken, mushrooms, dill béchamel sauce and goat cheese. For dessert, the Marquis is a bittersweet chocolate crepe with light chocolate mousse and fresh strawberries and blackberries while the Nomande is a whole-wheat crepe with caramelized apples, Chantilly whipped cream, candied walnuts and caramel sauce. Other "strong contenders" include strawberry and Nutella crepes as well as the Crepes Suzette. [Sun-Times]
Artisan Table in Naperville is producing excellent farm-to-table fare, writes Jennifer Olvera. Housemade potato chips are "perfectly crispy, thin-as-a-wisp spuds" sprinkled with bacon bits and blue cheese while the cheese board is a "luxurious mix" of American cheeses. An "enjoyable" harvest salad is a "kind of dish where quality ingredients speak for themselves," and the dry-rubbed rib eye with creamed baby spinach, roasted Yukons and balsamic onion jam is "perfectly prepared." Capping off the meal is a blackberry tart with cornmeal shortbread crumble and "just-tart-enough" key lime sauce you won't want to share. [Daily Herald]